Saluti! To Design Pioneer and Philanthropist: Elsa Peretti

As Paris fashion week ended there was a diversion from homeward bound travel as a group of guests set off for Sant Marti Vell in Catalonia to sup the atmosphere, design, and history of Elsa Peretti’s rural hideaway. She restored the buildings and dwellings in this rural hamlet over the course of many decades, working with architect friends and local craftsman in a venture funded by royalty fees from her long career designing for Tiffany & Co. As a committed philanthropist, it was Peretti’s generous way of giving back to the country that fueled her creative sparks, and to the artisans and Catalan silversmiths who taught her so much. “My twenty years with Tiffany are linked to Sant Marti Vell in an inseparable way that summarizes what I love – people, animals, plants, objects…strong memories,” said the indefatigable Peretti of her spiritual retreat that is now preserved and cared for by the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation following her death in 2021, aged 80.

Peretti first began her artistic partnership with Tiffany & Co back in 1974 in the heady, melting pot that was then New York. The Italian born designer changed the course of Tiffany & Co creating innovative, organic and ergonomic pieces that flew in the face of traditional jewellery then dominated by ‘parures’ or sets and big dazzling precious stones. Her obsession was with sculpting metals epitomized by the smooth Bone cuff, natural talismans such as the Bean and Open-Heart charms, non-precious materials like wood and pragmatic innovations like buying Diamonds by the Yard appealed to women who were beginning to invest in jewellery for themselves.

Now marking the 50th year anniversary of her collaboration, Tiffany & Co (America’s first true luxury brand) devotes a new collection, reimagining her creations in a myriad of ways including iconic designs set with exceptional gemstones. “Peretti was able to create an extraordinary universe of groundbreaking designs that changed the course of Tiffany’s history and continues to resonate to this day,”says Anthony Ledru, President and Chief Executive Officer, Tiffany & Co of her legacy.

Styles include new Bone and Split rings inspired by Peretti’s legendary cuff, as well as rare Bone cuffs handset with pavé diamonds, pavé rubies and unique hand-carved cabochon stones. Limited Mesh styles with tanzanite’s, rubellites, emeralds and diamonds, one-of-a-kind Cabochon rings, and bold Fancy Color rings also feature. Meanwhile, rites of passage pieces like the Bean, Amapol (poppy), the innovate Scorpion and Snake necklaces are embellished with pavé diamonds and crafted by Tiffany’s power workforce of 4,000 artisans across the globe.

The artist, model and philanthropist who was born in Florence in 1940 remains a pin up for her oeuvre as well as her big hearted, change making endeavors. The Foundation invests in an array of projects including wildlife conservation and disaster relief alongside Sant Marti Velli that stands as a constantly evolving art installation which can be visited in small numbers and by arrangement with the Foundation.

Peretti’s peerless style revolved around black roll necks, bug eye sunglasses, bias cuts, plunging silk jersey Halston (for whom she worked); chiffon blouses and boot cut trousers that all provided a backdrop for her sensual, sculptural adornments. The Daniel Minahan Netflix film Halston starring Ewan McGregor as the fashion titan and Rebecca Dayan as Peretti shines a light on her creative rigour, passion, and those head spinning times in New York.

Her taste in interiors was as bold as her designs with framed sketches by Warhol and Picasso, hand knotted rugs, Catalan furniture, Chinese celadon and exposed medieval stone walls. There are now 18 Elsa houses, and three masias, or country homes, that are maintained as heritage sites by the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation. LVMH (which bought Tiffany 2021 for $15.8bn) is now working with the Foundation to safeguard Peretti’s legacy – her timeless designs still account for 10% of sales and this reimagined series is a tribute to a true pioneer.