Heart Details Sheer Dress
@nensidojaka // Instagram
While the metaverse is filling up with avatars wearing logo’ed sweats, kicks and caps; there are certain corners of our terrestrial planet populated by the human species wearing body con next to nothing. The desire to reveal as well as conceal is as old as Adam & Eve and in 2023 the mode is laced with assertive body positive messages.
There’s a whole litany of designs with that fine, veiled appeal from semi sheer mesh jersey cowl necked gowns at Saint Laurent to Miu Miu’s crystal spangled nude slip skirts. One of the champions of the fireballing trend is Nensi Dojaka, the London based Albanian born designer who since launching her brand on the Fashion East platform in 2019 (after graduating from CSM’s M.A.) has built out a distinct and unique signature that boasts all the exquisite finery and engineering of couture lingerie.
"Dojaka excels at a language of sexy which is neither brazen or cliched and in that way speaks to a generation who desire to dress in a subtle, tasteful way that shows off both vulnerability and strength."
Backstage at SS23
@nensidojaka // Instagram
Dojaka, who is thirty this year, excels at a language of sexy which is neither brazen or cliched and in that way speaks to a generation who desire to dress in a subtle, tasteful way that shows off both vulnerability and strength. In literally a slip of a garment, she manages to juxtapose tiny intricate frills, soft rose and red hues, with a graphic like web of fine spaghetti straps and asymmetric shapes. That careful balance of the abstract and the deliciously feminine is attracting a whole roster of talent including Emily Ratajkowski, Zendaya, Adut Akech, Dua Lipa and Sophie Turner. The creative keeps a tight knit group of women around her including her studio team, fit model (she works directly on the body), Lulu Kennedy (founder of Fashion East), and stylist Francesca Burns.
Dojaka (who won the LVMH prize in 2021) turned her attentions to the prettiest lace in her SS23 collection trimming lacquered chiffon slips and creating frilled and pleated bras to top seamed chiffon gowns in raspberry, lilac and cranberry hues. There were glistening silver sequin snaffle link camisoles teamed with faded denim two tone jeans, and leggings with heart cut out details at the hip bone. These light as a feather creations cut in high tech body contouring fabrics were worn ‘grounded’ with crystal embellished, lattice kitten heels. And while one might presume Dojoka’s collections are bound for slender girls alone, the appearance of Paloma Elsesser in a cut away ruched top, Beyonce or the designer herself, showcase the possibilities. What about a Nensi dress?
