Urban Safari

Back in the heady days of 1967, Yves Saint Laurent first debuted his safari look – la saharienne – to an audience enraptured by the designer’s reimagining’s of men’s wear for women. The khaki gabardine jacket and trouser combo sported by la jeunesse-doree and Yves himself, became a hit in urban environments with its message of big adventure: social and sexual.

With smart timing, Anthony Vaccarello is now reclaiming the YSL icon as a new classic for 2024 with the khaki, cotton and big utility pockets playing well to our taste for purpose driven style. Vaccarello (champion of extreme tailoring) wanted a collection that featured no tailoring at all but instead focussed on everyday essentials. “I think there’s a lot of very busy things right now. I want for Saint Laurent to go back to something very clean and basic, and start a new chapter in a way,” said Vaccarello who is aiming to combat the prevailing winds of overwhelm.

Yet basic does not equal banal – rather more it’s a lesson in style and glamour redux. Cue fifty-year-old Eva Herzigova in a strapless black flying suit, geometric trophy earrings, cutaway aviators, leather gloves and slingback heels wearing a look that signalled ‘I fly my own route.’ The belted flying suit, cut with flaring sleeves and wide legs was a standout. Wear with boots or heels throughout many an eventful day and ditto the cargo skirts and sheer vests (topped with an Amelia Earhart aviator’s leather helmet). Those sun-dried shades of khaki, tamarind and cocoa; the zippers and buttons speak volumes to our desire for fuss free style. Plus, it all looks good a little crumpled too…but that’s another adventure.