Gucci’s New Gloss

When Sabato de Sarno was plucked from the ateliers of Valentino to head up the studio at Gucci, he had a short sprint to design a collection that would turn the dial on the brands direction. Alessandro Michele’s esoteric theatrical fare was swiftly usurped by a clean-cut preppy mood that concentrated on best-in-class wardrobe classics.

There were slouchy jeans, cashmere sweaters trimmed with crystals and thigh slit pencil skirts in GG embossed glossy leather alongside silk wool short suits with dapper db. jackets and sporty funnel neck gabardine jackets. De Sarno rebooted house signatures including the Gucci stripe in a panelled leather jacket; the horse bit loafer raised up high on a platform sole and the Jackie and Bucket bags now shrunken to a small everyday size. In a range of hues from house burgundy (Rosso Ancora) to bubble-gum pink and ivory white these accessories pack a classy punch and look even better when married with matching shoes whether that be snaffle slingbacks or the 1953 horse bit loafers.

With so much commotion in the fashion world (Alessandro Michele is now headed for Valentino after Pier Paolo Piccioli stepped down in March) luxury can feel like a constant game of switcheroo. Who to back? Naples born de Sarno is taking the path of steady evolution rather than radical overhaul and his direction is a study in sophistication and detail. When it comes to weighing up proposals, there’s a simple rule of thumb: listen to your heart and we can take it from there.