The third collection by Maison Goossens and Harumi Klossowska de Rola showcases a delicate dance with nature
Where art and jewellery combine lies Maison Goossens, the Parisian atelier founded by the late Robert Goossens in the ‘50s. Prior to launching his eponymous brand, the designer had worked with Cristóbal Balenciaga, Jean Rochas and Elsa Schiaparelli, but it was a partnership with Gabrielle Chanel that established him as a household name in couture jewellery. In 2005, Goossens joined Chanel’s Métiers d’art, a collection of artisans that the brand relies on for the finest craftsmanship.
It was Chanel who introduced designer and artist Harumi Klossowska de Rola to the Goossens fold - a collaboration that saw its third capsule collection recently land. Harumi is daughter of the artist Balthus and the Japanese painter Setsuko Klossowska de Rola, and lives and works from a chalet in Switzerland where she’s surrounded by the nature that inspires her work. “I see things in nature, go away and research them in books and then design, or I create a model directly from wax or plastiline,” says Harumi, who admits to almost never wearing jewellery herself, “just a ring.”
The most recent collection, composed of a sculptural gold headpiece, bracelets, earrings and rings, is inspired by two insects: the dragonfly, ephemeral and light, a symbol of change; and the Kallima inachus butterfly, that resembles a leaf, playing poetically with the notion of appearance.
Harumi references the work of architects and interior designers Joseph Dirand, Chahan Minassian, and Axel Vervoordt, as influential on her work, as well as the gardens of Kyoto. “Especially Kawai Kanjiro’s house, and its sense of wabi sabi,” she says of the Japanese philosophy surrounding an aesthetic associated with 'imperfection.'