“The whole feeling of reflected light is inside these clothes,” says creative director of Anest, Brendan Mullane. “We looked at how light reflects onto the body. The lightness allows us to layer one element on top of another. And then you also get the idea of a reflection of thought.” Luminosity, looks like an attractive proposal for 2023 and Mullane has channelled that into sartorial pieces that have an ease as well as a lustre.
The Shanghai/Milan founded brand is quietly carving a place in the luxury echelon with its thoughtfully considered Made in Italy collections that offer up a study in aesthetics and a subtle signalling of elegance that is attracting a wealth of creatives to its virtual and real doors. Consider the flagship store in Shanghai designed by Waterfrom Design which features multiple layers, steps and platforms clad in marble, stone and lacquer that play with our sense of gravity and optical perspective. It has become a mecca for architects and designers as well as style seekers.
Wool-Blend Tuxedo Jacket
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Anest Collective Silk-Blend Pleated Dress
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"There's a sense of study inside the clothing... we want to provoke a feeling, a sensation."
Such intellectual adventures can often get lost when it comes to the wearing of clothes and Mullane who previously worked for brands including Brioni and Givenchy concentrates on detail, fabrication and silhouette to pique the imagination. Consider a tunic top and long-legged puddle hem trousers rendered in lustrous silk satin, or a gym slip dress with chevron ‘mirror’ embroidery coursing down the neckline or a silk blouson and skirt duo with a hand painted abstract pattern in watery hues of tourmaline and grey. For men, a mohair and wool blouson and neat stretch twill trousers line up with a handsome trench coat and a zippered suede shirt.
“There’s a sense of study inside the clothing,” explains Mullane, “we want to provoke a feeling, a sensation.” In our over stimulating world, that’s some feat.